In order for there to be no recoil (skid slipping back when pushing), you need correctly selected skis, lubrication (for "holding") and the ability to use them. Removing recoil is required only when moving in a classic move.
It is necessary
- - table for handling skis
- - ski ointments for holding
- - ground ointment
- - metal cycle
- - fiberglass scraper
- - nylon brush
- - cork
- - nylon fabric
- - iron for skis
Instructions
Step 1
Choose skis for length and stiffness. The length should be equal to your own height plus 20 cm, the sock for the "classic" is sharp. Then put them on a flat, hard surface, stand on both skis at the same time and ask the assistant to bring a sheet of paper under them. The distance where the paper moves freely is called the “block”. When transferring body weight to one ski, the paper should press well. The average length of the last should be approximately 50 cm.
Step 2
Fix the ski on the table in a special machine or neatly in a vice. Take a metal cycle and remove (preferably in one motion from the tip of the ski to the heel) all the irregularities of the sliding surface. Apply primer grease, scrub with a cork block, and remove excess with a plastic scraper. Clean with a brush and, tightly wrapping a nylon cloth (a piece from old tights is good), a block of cork, polish to a "mirror" shine.
Step 3
Put a primer under the layer of "holding" ointment on the block, then it will last longer. Choose a recoil ointment according to weather conditions. The meteorological conditions of use are written on the packages. The lower the temperature range of the ointment, the more versatile it is (in relation to the moisture content and structure of the snow). Follow the general rule: "The older the snow, the warmer you need to choose the ointment" within reasonable limits, otherwise the lubricant will simply freeze and roll instead of removing the recoil.
Step 4
Apply the ointment evenly over the entire length of the pad. Heat the applied ointment with a special iron and smooth it. Rub thoroughly with a cork block, not forgetting about the guide groove, and once again polish with nylon on the cork. To even more reliably remove recoil, increase the length of the shoe forward (towards the toe of the ski).
