Alpine skiing is a technical sport in which a lot depends on equipment. Due to the seeming complexity of the setup, many people who are just starting to master alpine skiing do not bother with the correct adjustment of the bindings, risking both the pleasure of skiing and their own health. Despite the abundance of obscure screw holes and scales, setting up ski bindings is not at all difficult.
It is necessary
A screwdriver or wrench that allows you to turn the slotted screws (flat slot)
Instructions
Step 1
The basic setting for ski bindings is called the shooting force. This is the maximum force on the binding, when applied, it holds the boot. If this force is exceeded, the mount will "shoot back" to prevent accidents. The scales in the front and back of the mount are just used to adjust the force of the shot. Each number on it is equal to 10 kg. Usually, the value on the scales is set 10-20 kg less than the weight of the skier, but if you are a beginner skier, then for a start it is not recommended to set the effort more than 30-40 kg. Adjust the front and back of the mounts using a screwdriver. At the initial stage, it is better to unscrew the same values, in the future it will become clear where to tighten and where to weaken.
Step 2
Body weight is not the only determinant of this setting, much depends on the physical condition of the athlete. The more trained he is, the stronger and more elastic his muscles and ligaments on his legs, the higher the permissible shooting force. That is why it is necessary to start with small values, "soft" settings, and as control increases, adjust the mounts for yourself. The height of the skier is also important: for tall athletes, you can add half a point to the adjustment value on the scale, for stocky athletes, on the contrary. It will not be superfluous to check the mountings before riding. To do this, standing on skis, you need to "fall" forward, using poles for belay. This must be done carefully, because in some cases this method can cause pain.
Step 3
On high-level mount models, there is also such a setting as adjusting the gap of the fixing jaws. It may be needed only by those who will grind the boot to change the standard clamping position. So it is difficult to give recommendations on this setting, it depends on the degree of grinding, which is usually done by people with such a level of riding, at which advice is no longer needed.
